April 19
"the ancient city of Provins - mine by noble birthright"
Ride was not so long, or that hilly, but headwind was rough. Approaching the outskirts of the town I passed what looked like people camping out in motorhomes amidst trash heaps. I thought they were just vacationing but for many it could actually have been their permanent residences. I thought about the possibility of pitching my tent near them but I thought I'd be more comfortable in a campground, which I was able to find on the top of a little hill outside of town. It was really cheap, very hilly (had to be careful descending on the bike) strewn with beautiful flowers and I was the only person there. Dried myself after showering by the usual method of fanning my naked body with the stall door.
Famous for its Medieval fortifications, you are looking at the Cesar Tour (Caesar's Tower) on the upper town. To reclaim it, I had to first get to it by cycling up a really steep hill. Thanks to the help of my magical gears I made short work of it in a succession of pumping actions.
The Saint Quiriace Collegiate Church is also situated on the upper town, although construction work during the 12th century was never completed due to financial difficulties during the reign of Philippe le Bel. A dome was added in the 17th century, and the old families of Provins who lived in the upper town were called "Children of the Dome."
There are a number of restaurants set atop this hillock - once I realized this I knew I had to eat in one of them to cement the moment in my memory. Had an excellent tuna salad, fish dinner and nougat crust dessert. After finishing my wine and dessert, made my way back to the campsite with my trusty little bicycle light, which illuminates virtually nothing. Confused at first and asked a few people to get bearings but found my way in the end.
My name-bearing ancestors likely originated in this city and eventually migrated into western Flanders.
4.90 breads
5 lunch combo
5.82 camping
33 dinner